Julie and I will be hiking from John O’Groats to Land’s End in the UK during the northern summer of 2022. The journey of nearly 2,000 kilometres will take about two and a half months, a week or two longer than when I hiked the other direction in 2010. We will stay in B&B’s, hostels and pubs, so will not be carrying camping gear, though we will each have an emergency bivvy sack just in case we can’t find somewhere to stay.

John O'Groats to Land's End - Day 054 - Chepstow to Easton in Gordano

Day: 054

Date: Sunday, 24 July 2022

Start:  Chepstow

Finish:  Easton in Gordano

Daily Kilometres:  33

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1489

Weather:  Mild, overcast and drizzling early, but gradually warming and clearing with sunny spells.

Accommodation:  Hotel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Cereal/Muesli, toast & jam

  Lunch:  Egg & cress sandwich/Coronation chicken sandwich

  Dinner:  Kentucky Fried Chicken & chips, Krispy Kreme donuts

Aches:  Dave - a few niggles.  Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Crossing the Severn River estuary and turning towards Land’s End and the end of our journey.  We feel like we are in the final stretch, not desperate to finish but savouring what we have experienced.

Lowlight:  None really.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We were a little bit later leaving than planned because Dave forgot to set the alarm but were walking by 7:30am after making good use of the continental breakfast in the heavily-postered hostel kitchen,  For the first five kilometres, we were retracing our steps of yesterday to the turnaround point of the Severn Bridge Parkrun in overcast conditions with a persistent light drizzle.  It was also quite windy on the bridge, so not that pleasant, and we discussed how miserable it must get for the parkrunners sometimes in winter.


After descending on the bridge to the English side, we scrambled up a steep dirt bank unofficial shortcut to the Motorway service station where we bought a snack and drink for morning break.  The next few hours were mostly quite uninteresting walking, following supposed field paths across rough fields, some almost wasteland, on the flat river floodplain.  Not very inspiring on a grey day.


However, after our morning break at 11:00am, the scenery and paths improved, though we did make a few navigational errors.  We passed through some pretty villages and climbed onto a low ridge that allowed us to see more of the surrounding country, which turned out to contain a lot of industry, villages, and office parks.  This was not surprising because our route for the day was skirting the city of Bristol and passing through some of its suburbs.


In one of those suburbs, Henbury, we found a grocery to buy some lunch and then carried it up to the beautiful and vast Blaise Castle Estate park via Blaise Hamlet, a picturesque group of 200-year-old cottages set around a little green.  At the park, on what had become a sunny afternoon, lots of people were out enjoying themselves.  We found a bench from which to survey the scene while eating lunch.  Nearby, under a small marquee, there seemed to be some kind of evangelical gathering of south Asians being entertained by a young guy who was a good talker.  Of course, we couldn’t understand a word he was saying …. so probably completely misconstrued what was happening.


After lunch, we visited the less-than-impressive Blaise Castle, a folly (sham) castle built 200 years ago by the then-estate owner, before following paths, mostly through pleasant woodland on this greenbelt through the urban area, to Avonmouth and the huge bridge across the River Avon.  The bridge, which primarily carried the busy M5 Motorway, had a shared path which we used to cross the river.  It was very noisy and windy, but we got some great views.


From there, we travelled a few more kilometres along a bike path and backroads until we returned to the Motorway and a service area where we had booked our hotel room, arriving at 4:15pm.  I suspect they rarely have guests arriving on foot!


John O'Groats to Land's End - Day 053 - Chepstow

Day: 053

Date: Saturday, 23 July 2022

Start:  Chepstow

Finish:  Chepstow

Daily Kilometres:  0

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos from her afternoon walk.

Total Kilometres:  1456

Weather:  Mild and overcast

Accommodation:  Hostel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pastries

  Lunch:  Pastie/Southern fried chicken roll

  Dinner:  All day brunch/Chicken strips & chips, icecream

Aches:  Nothing to report

Highlight:  None really

Lowlight:  None really

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

In the morning, we both walked the 3 kilometres to the Welsh end of the Severn Bridge and participated in the Severn Bridge Parkrun which goes out to the English side of the Bridge and back to the Welsh side, along with about 160 other runners.  It was a unique course and a bit of fun, though we will be walking across the same bridge again tomorrow.


On our walk back to the hostel we bought some breakfast and ate it out the back of the hostel at a picnic table after showering.  We then had a lazy day, with Dave mostly tapping away on the keyboard and Julie going for an afternoon walk around the interesting old town.


We had a pub dinner again and an early night.


John O'Groats to Land's End - Day 052 - Monmouth to Chepstow

Day: 052

Date: Friday, 22 July 2022

Start:  Monmouth

Finish:  Chepstow

Daily Kilometres:  30

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1456

Weather:  Cool to warm, with some occasional light drizzle and sunshine.

Accommodation:  Hostel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pastries/Breakfast bars

  Lunch:  Cheese & onion sandwiches/Ploughmans sandwich

  Dinner:  Hamburger & chips, icecream

Aches:  Dave - a few niggles.  Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  We passed through some beautiful ancient woodland today.  Magical.

Lowlight:  Reasonably-priced accommodation was hard to find in Chepstow, so we are in a privately-run hostel which has regulations posted all over the place.  Particularly irksome to us, since we are here for two nights, is that the self-serve kitchen is only open from 7:30am - 10:30am, no food is allowed in rooms, and rooms must be vacated between 11:00am and 3:00pm.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Some unexpected admin for Dave as a result of overnight emails delayed our planned departure from Monmouth a little and it was nearly 7:30am by the time we started walking out of town under very grey skies and in a very light drizzle.


As soon as we crossed the River Wye, we began a long and sometimes steep climb away from the river which set the pattern for the day - effort followed by reward - as it should be.  At the top of the climb, we had superb views over the Wye valley and Monmouth and then had some kilometres in very peaceful and mossy old-growth forest on lovely trail.


As the day progressed, the same thing happened after two more similar climbs.  In between there were some beautiful field paths and a long stint alongside the River Wye, sometimes sandwiched between steep forested slopes.  Large fish (trout?) occasionally leapt out of the steadily-flowing river but we were not fast enough to get a photo.


As we neared Chepstow, the ancient Offa’s Dyke was visible next to, or beneath, the trail for a long stretch and, at one lookout, we had a spectacular view down to the impressive ruins of Tintern Abbey, dating back to the 12th century, next to the river.


After a final long and steady descent through a mix of farmland and lovely old homes, we crossed the River Wye for the last time and entered the town of Chepstow, with castle ruins to our right, and found our hostel in the middle of town, checking in at 4:00pm.


We met quite a lot of walkers during the day, on this deservedly popular part of the Offa’s Dyke Trail, along with some families on what is, apparently, the first day of the summer school vacation for most children.  We could be seeing a lot more on our remaining days of hiking.


We have a day off here, which would likely be more enjoyable at different accommodation (see above).


John O'Groats to Land's End - Day 051 - Pandy to Monmouth

Day: 051

Date: Thursday, 21 July 2022

Start:  Pandy (after bus from Abergavenny)

Finish:  Monmouth

Daily Kilometres:  27

GPX Track:  Click here and here for Julie’s Strava & Photos of our walk and her run

Total Kilometres:  1426

Weather:  Mild to warm and partly sunny.

Accommodation:  Hotel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pastries/muffins

  Lunch:  Egg & cress sandwich/Coronation chicken sandwich

  Dinner:  Kebab, salad & chips, Caramel cheesecake.

Aches:  Dave - sore shoulder (but getting better).  Julie - nothing.

Highlight:  We reached the fabulous White Castle ruin at 9:40am, just at the right time for our breakfast break, and had the large castle ruin, dating from the 11th century, and its manicured grass grounds to ourselves in the morning sun.  Perfect!

Lowlight:  None really.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We caught the 7:00am (high-speed!) bus from Abergavenny back to Pandy, where we finished yesterday, and were walking eastwards on the Offa’s Dyke Path by 7:20am on a beautiful mild sunny morning.


Apart from the historic and interesting White Castle (see above), there was nothing particularly remarkable about today’s walking.  For the most part, our trail crossed beautiful, undulating and peaceful rural landscapes on easy walking field paths and country lanes.  There were pastures, grain crops, a local day-hiker who joined us for a couple of kilometres and talked non-stop, a couple of cheerful “Scouse” lads walking the Offa’s Dyke Path home to Liverpool, the “dangerous” bridge we crossed rather than take a recommended (but long) detour, and the perfectly-placed picnic table for lunch.  In the latter’s case, we had already decided, hours earlier, that we would look for somewhere to stop for lunch around 1:00pm.  As if on cue, on the edge of a mown grain field in the middle of nowhere, and for no obvious reason, a picnic table appeared exactly at 1:00pm.


As a break from the field paths and lanes, the last 5 kilometres passed through pleasant shady woodland on a warm afternoon, before entering the busy town of Monmouth.  We found our accommodation at 3:15pm and checked in.  After studying her Garmin app, Julie decided she hadn’t done enough for the day and went for a 5km run around the town!  Dave, sensibly, decided to recover in front of the World Athletics Championships replay on TV.


Another great day.


John O'Groats to Land's End - Day 050 - Hay-on-Wye to Pandy

Day: 050

Date: Wednesday, 20 July 2022

Start:  Hay-on-Wye

Finish:  Pandy (then bus to Abergavenny)

Daily Kilometres:  27

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1399

Weather:  Mild and overcast all day.

Accommodation:  Hotel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pastries/Flapjacks

  Lunch:  Egg & salad sandwich/Chicken & bacon sandwich

  Dinner:  Pizza, Raspberry trifle

Aches:  Dave - sore right shoulder (see below).  Julie - nothing.

Highlight:  Eventually getting some views from the top of the Black Mountains after being in thick fog when we first reached the high ridge.

Lowlight:  Dave tripped and fell on a relatively easy part of the trail, landing on his right shoulder, which is now giving a lot of discomfort when the arm is moved though it’s OK when walking with the pack on.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Our destination for the day was the hamlet of Pandy, though the only accommodation we could get was a pub in Abergavenny, a 20-minute bus ride from Pandy.  The buses go every two hours, so our goal was to catch the 3:00pm bus and we left Hay-on-Wye at 6:30am to give ourselves every chance.


It was cooler than yesterday as we climbed out of the village, but still quite humid and very hazy with a low cloud base.  We started out across fields but soon encountered some steep trail in a wood.  By 7:00am, Dave could see the sweat running off the end of his nose like a leaking tap and was wondering where the cooler weather was.


After some easier climbing across moorland and a cooling breeze things looked better, but then we had a really steep and long climb up to Hay Bluff, the last part of which was in thick fog so you could not see how far you still had to go.  We just had to keep plugging away knowing that eventually the crest would be reached.  We were quite warm when we reached the trig point marking the end of the climb, but a teacher/instructor huddled there in all his warm gear waiting for Duke of Edinburgh students to arrive looked anything but.


The fog was still very thick as we set off along the long plateau-like Hatterrall Ridge and we began to despair of getting any of the great views we knew were there.  However, the walking was easy, the temperature good and we just motored along.  Coming the other way, we encountered some groups of teenagers on their Duke of Ed expedition (as we did all day), not always looking happy, and not always appropriately dressed.


The cloud base began to lift a little as we followed the ridge and we began to get hazy glimpses of the valleys way below.  We had our breakfast break around 9:30am on the broad moorland and quickly cooled down in the fog and breeze, donning our jackets.  After breakfast, the breeze dropped and the cloud lifted a little higher giving us better, but still hazy, views.  The usual sheep were around on the moor, but we also saw several herds of horses/ponies who seemed little-troubled by hikers and were sometimes hard to get past on the trail.


We continued to make good time, despite Dave tripping and hurting his shoulder (see above), and stopped for our lunch break at 12:30pm near the top of Hatterrall Hill with just over 5 kilometres to go and plenty of time in hand before the 3:00pm bus.


The last leg was mostly downhill and often steep, but we had the bonus of even better views as we dropped further below the cloud base.  We reached the bus stop with 30 minutes to spare and then caught it to the market town of Abergavenny where we checked into our hotel at 3:30pm just as it was starting to drizzle.


John O'Groats to Land's End - Day 049 - Kington to Hay-on-Wye

Day: 049

Date: Tuesday, 19 July 2022

Start:  Kington

Finish:  Hay-on-Wye

Daily Kilometres:  28

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1372

Weather:  Very warm and mostly sunny.

Accommodation:  AirBnB

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pastries

  Lunch:  Tuna & sweetcorn sandwich/Chicken & stuffing sandwich

  Dinner:  Shrimp pasta salad & cold omelette/Salami & salad sandwich, cheesecake.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles (left ankle, right shoulder) and some unwelcome chafing.  Julie - nothing.

Highlight:  The early morning walk across Hergest Common, near Kington, was very enjoyable.  Broad swathes of bracken, criss-crossed by wide mown grass trails, and fantastic views in all directions.

Lowlight:  The heat and humidity detracted a little from today’s enjoyment.  There was little shade for most of the day and the climbs were very sweaty affairs.  We felt fully-cooked after several ascents and though there was a cooling breeze at the higher elevations, it was absent in the valleys.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

The AirBnB we had booked for tonight gave us access to a washing machine and drier, so we decided to make sure we arrived around 3:00pm, the earliest we could check in.  It was to be a relatively short day, 26+ kilometres, so we left our accommodation at 7:00am and stopped by the supermarket in Kington on our way to rejoin the Offa’s Dyke Path, to get our supplies for the day.


There was a long and steady climb out of Kington, one of those climbs that keeps on giving, up onto the fantastic Hergest Common (see above).  We both thought it would be a great place to be a runner, and thoroughly enjoyed our walk across the broad moor.  A long descent took us down to the hamlet of Gladestry and then, before long, and in increasingly warm conditions, an enervating climb up onto the next hill.  Along the top of the broad hill we found a place in the shade opposite a farmyard to have breakfast around 10:00am, and really enjoyed the break.


From there, we mostly followed field paths across the broad ridge, noticing all of the sheep utilising every bit of shade available, before gradually descending, with a couple of short sharp and very hot climbs, towards the River Wye valley.  Around 12:30pm we stopped for lunch in a little wood, one of the few for the day, happy that, with only 5 kilometres to go, we were going to easily make Hay-on-Wye before 3:00pm.


Most of the last leg involved crossing fields adjacent to the River Wye, where it was very warm and the river looked very enticing.  We crossed the river into Hay-on-Wye around 2:20pm and found somewhere shady to sit and had a cold drink and an icecream.  Soon after 3:00pm we checked into our AirBnB and, after much-needed showers, did some much-needed laundry.  Hay-on-Wye, a very attractive little town, is famous for its bookshops, of which there are many.  Later, while doing some shopping, Julie had a look around the castle where there were even more booksellers.


We planned to have take-out for dinner, but could not find one open in Hay-on-Wye.  Everything seems to only open Thursday to Sunday.  In the end we decided to go to a nearby recommended pub but found they weren’t offering meals because it was going to be too hot in the kitchen for their cooks.  Plan C was to wander down to the small supermarket and buy what cold food we could find that was appealing, and that is what we did.


John O'Groats to Land's End - Day 048 - Knighton to Kington

Day: 048

Date: Monday, 18 July 2022

Start:  Knighton

Finish:  Kington

Daily Kilometres:  26

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  1344

Weather:  Very warm and mostly sunny.

Accommodation:  Cabin

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Egg mayonnaise rolls

  Lunch:  Tuna mayonnaise sandwich/Ham & cheese sandwich.

  Dinner:  Lasagne & vegetables, icecream

Aches:  Dave - the usual few niggles.  Julie - sore feet (from her walking shoes, which she should probably throw out).

Highlight:  After our climb out of Knighton, and before it got too warm, we had a beautiful hour of walking along a broad ridge, mostly across open fields, with wonderful views over the River Lugg valley to the west.

Lowlight:  We had been unable to get accommodation right in Kington (we prefer accommodation within easy walking of grocery stores and take-out food shops) so had to settle for a cabin 1.5 kilometres south of town and not on our route.  On arrival in Kington, we stopped at a supermarket and bought dinner supplies and drinks, and then had a very warm roadwalk with an extra few kilos in our packs to our accommodation that we could have done without.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

Originally, we had planned to walk 45 kilometres to Hay-on-Wye today and then have tomorrow off in that interesting town.  However, last week, when the first warnings about a UK heatwave for today and tomorrow began to be issued, we changed our plans and decided to split the journey in two and dispense with the day off.  So, we set off today with just a 23 kilometre walk planned to the village of Kington (turned out to be a bit further) and didn’t leave until 8:30am, giving Julie time to go for a run before we left.


We first walked into Knighton, and Wales, stopping to buy supplies for the day, and then joined the Offa’s Dyke Path, a UK National Trail, which we will follow for the next five days.  Knighton is about the halfway point of the whole trail which pretty much follows the Welsh border north to south from the Liverpool Bay to the River Severn, so we are only walking the southern half.  Offa’s Dyke is an earthwork ditch and wall, presumably defensive, constructed on the orders of Offa, the King of Mercia in the 8th Century, to mark the border between his kingdom and the Welsh kingdom of Powys.


The Dyke is still visible in many places and we followed it for much of today’s walk, marvelling at the engineering feat of all those years ago.


It did get quite warm today and we cut our usual interval between breaks from three hours to two.  At the higher elevations there was a cooling breeze and there were also some very nice shaded wooded sections, but there were three solid climbs which were hot sweaty work.  Our phones indicated that local temperatures were in the mid-30s Centigrade during the afternoon, which was warmer than we would like, but not unmanageable.


Most of the day’s walking was on very pleasant paths of one kind or another, with seemingly endless great views, though our average pace was down, probably due to the hills.  We eventually reached the village of Kington just before 4:00pm and stopped in at the supermarket to buy supplies and drinks for dinner, before walking the last 1.5 kilometres to our cabin and checking in.  Another good day.